9/5/2023 0 Comments Superclear liquid glass epoxy![]() ![]() ✅ Cures Incredibly Smooth and Nearly Glass-like. □ Resistant to Yellowing - UV Inhibitors added. ✅ Made to be a Finishing Top Coat for nearly any project. ![]() It is super easy to use since it's a 1:1 Ratio. It is self-leveling and will be a smooth coating too.Įach Super Gloss Epoxy Resin Kit includes one 1/2 gallon of Part A-side Resin and one 1/2 gallon of Part B-side hardener. This epoxy system cures rigid, blush-free, shiny, with a high gloss finish. It leaves a glass-like finish without yellowing.Īdvanced users create multi-layered castings, creations, and more. I would post pictures but I don't know how.Super Gloss epoxy resin is UV resistant and designed to give a thick high gloss clear coating on bar tops and tables. If you pour over anything that might float, or give off bubles, use a paint brush and coat the item first, then it will stick to the bottom and not float when you do the next pour or give off bubbles. Took me a long time and was exhausted.ĭon't think your going to pour it in another mold then transfer it, lots to go wrong. mixed by the quart 5 minutes, poured into another quart and mixed another 5 minutes to ensure no unmixed epoxy found its way onto the bar. So it was an epic day, woke up at 4AM, had 4 space heaters around the bar and started mixing. It also said to keep it 80 degrees to cure. Directions said 1/4 inch at a time, wait 4 hours then do another 1/4th. My bar is 12 1/2 feet long, so I used gallons and gallons. You don't want to waste hundreds of dollars of epoxy and all the stuff you poured it on, plus the wood. I believe its the co2 that pops the bubbles more than the heat.įollow the epoxy directions exactly. It is awesome.ĭon't worry about the rounds cooking off, the passes with a torch, or whatever is very quick. I did an awesome bar top like that except I used empty 556 brass, full live 556, 9mm, linked 556, plus military coins, small battle maps, pages of field manuals, ribbon racks etc. Air can get trapped and you’ll get bubbles coming up for a while. Monitor the piece closely for new bubbles. If you are concerned about heat you can put a fan on the piece to help dissipate some of that heat.īefore you pour, seal any exposed wood with a layer of epoxy(brushed on), this will minimize air seeping from the wood which can cause bubbles. Too cold and it will take twice as long to cure. Some epoxies mix by weight, some by volume, be very precise with your measurements as well. A torch over the surface isn’t going to set anything off underneath.īe sure to use a deep pour epoxy(Superclear 2.0 liquid glass is a good product, you can get it on Amazon, look for sales) and read the directions very well. I see the chart posted above but I’ve never experienced temps that high with a typical 1-3 inch pour. ![]() Pretty unlikely that it will generate enough heat to set a round off. Since it'd be live ammo, any other safety concerns either in construction or use that I might not be thinking of? But maybe that's going better in my head than in practice?ģ. ![]() Gives the ability to swap in/out different bar tops if I wanted to. I'm thinking it'd be a better idea to measure out the inner surface, create a frame/mold and do the pouring elsewhere and then drop it in place. worried it'd detonate a round, then several, then thousands.Ģ. Even though it's just a quarter-second of a pass over it. Typically you smooth out the bubbles with a torch. But I haven't seen it done with live ammo.ġ. I've seen it done with casings (Matt from Demolition Ranch). 22lr ammo on it, spread it out, and then pour a really thick layer of epoxy bar resin over it to make it glass smooth and functional. Got the idea to dump a couple thousand rounds of. I'm adding a really nice bar edging which will leave me a lip around the inner bar top. I'm about half-way through building my bar in our newly remodeled basement. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |